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(More customer reviews)I am an avid cyclist who also owns a Denali Limited, which is the higher level bike of the same brand, so I have a basis for comparison. I bought this bike so I would have a spare wheelset and spare parts. But as it turns out, its a pretty good bike in its own right. At the time of writing, another site has it cheaper than Amazon, so it is the cheapest road bike available with integrated shifters/brakes (brifters). Out of the box, the Pro is about 4 lbs heavier than the Limited. It is essentially a Chinese version of the Taiwanese Limited. The wheelset is heavier, especially the rear wheel, but it seems sturdier with 36 spokes instead of 32 spokes. Other components that add to the weight are the old-fashioned quill stem, the 8 speed freewheel(not cassette like in the Limited), the steel fork (not carbon fiber in the Limited), the all alumninum frameset (not carbon fiber stays in the Limited), the solid bolted rear axle (not quick release as in the Limited), and the heavier saddle. The gearing is wider at the low and high end than the Limited- 53F/11R high and 39F/28R low. This is versatile gearing for hilly rides.
The frame and riding position is good and quite rideable. I ridden over 300 miles at the time of this writing and taken it through its paces on city roads, serious rides, and on rollers. It rides similar to the Limited, except the handlebars are a smaller diameter and due to the steel fork, the front end is 1.75" taller than the Limited. Therefore, it feels more upright. The wheelbase and frame geometry is the same as the Limited. The stiffness/suppleness of the frame/fork is comparable to the Limited. This is likely due to the extra heft. However, the extra heft is definitely noticeable during acceleration. The Limited is a significantly quicker bicycle. The brakes are identical to the Limited and are excellent in terms of modulation and stopping power. The cable housing from the lever to the front brake was 3" too long. It must be shortened 3" or else 1/2" of the initial braking stroke is ineffective. The kickstand is high quality and works well. It also comes with a nice bottle cage. Unlike the Limited, the frame and fork will accept wider 700C tires. Since this is the case and the frame is alumnimum with a steel fork, it is suitable for cyclocross. Like the Limited, it comes with toe-clip pedals. These are difficult to use and should be upgraded to clipless pedals. This upgrade is typical for road bikes of all price ranges.
The Microshift drivetrain, after some modifications, is almost as smooth as the Shimano Sora groupo on the Limited. The cable house from the brifters come about 3" too long, so they kink at the downtube stop. This housing must be trimmed 3" or else shifting is rough and imprecise. The brifters are nice and an interesting idea. Its a variation of Campagnolo, SRAM, and Shimano brifters. The brake lever does not rotate, but there are two buttons below the lever. Consequently, the Microshift brake lever feels more secure than Shimano, since the Shimano brake lever can get a little rotational displacement while braking. The front derailleur requires a super long throw to upshift. Shimano brifters are better for the front derailleur.
I changed the rim strips and the tubes to presta. The rim strip is cheap and the tube will eventually punture the strip through the aero wheel holes and cause flats. The schrader tubes are more difficult to pump up to 100 psi due to air leakage upon releasing the valve. The tires are the same cheap Kenda ones as the Limited. They are 90 psi maximum, low performance tires. At this low pressure, they are susceptible to snake bite flats. Upgrade them to sturdier and smoother 115 psi tires such as the Continental 4000's when the stock tires wear out.
The bike is very good looking, and people have mistaken it for an expensive bicycle. The Pro is made much more attractive if you take off the ugly and unnecessary black spoke protector in the rear wheel. The picture on Amazon does not do the bike justice. What gives the Pro away as a cheap bike is the ugly steel spider and pants protector on the crankset.
In conclusion, this bike is ideal as a second road bike for an avid cyclist. Since the geometry is similar to a typical road bike, you can switch back and forth between the Pro and a higher-end road bike without re-acclimation. If you train on a 27 lb bike, you will be very fast on a typical road bike like the Limited. Also, the low price means you can bring it anywhere with no anxiety in case it gets stolen. The wheels are sturdy and will take a pounding.
This bike is not good as a primary bike for the serious rider because of the following:
1. The quill stem is not easily customizable. The Limited uses a threadless headset, so stems of different lengths can be obtained.
2. The bike uses a freewheel and not cassette. It will be difficult to change the gearing or replace the freewheel on this bike, since freewheels are hard to remove and procure. Eventually all cogs wear out. I took the freewheel off and greased it heavily to make it easier to replace later.
3. The bolted rear wheel makes it harder to change flats on the road. You need to bring a wrench. You can get a hollow 3/8" x 26 tpi axle and quick release skewer for $30.
4. The welded in kickstand bracket makes it a real pain to remove the rear wheel. Most road bikes do not have a bracket, so there's no such problem.
5. The shifting system will not deliver in serious fast and demanding riding. Because it is a brifter system, it is much better than Revo on the Denali base model though.
If you are not an experienced bike mechanic, I highly recommend you have your local bike shop mechanic assemble and make the crucial modifications to this bike. Otherwise, you will not be happy. The build from China wasn't nearly as good as the Limited. Frankly, it was pretty sloppy. Shortening cable housing, adjusting the hubs, adjusting the brakes, truing the wheels, changing out the rim strips, and untangling the cables were all necessary and not beginner mechanic-friendly.
In conclusion, unless this is a second bike, or there is no chance you would get serious, its better to pay a little more and get the Forge road bike from Target. The Forge does not have the shortcomings above, but with an alumnimum frame and steel fork, it is questionable whether you would want to upgrade it. If you want even better performance than the Forge, you should get a higher end road bike. I suggest you get one from a LBS or from Bikesdirect.
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GMC Denali Pro Road Bike (56cm Frame)Looking for a nice road bike but don't want to break the bank? Turn to the GMC Denali Pro road bike, the little brother to the popular Denali LTD. Built with the same pride and attention to detail as GMC trucks, the Denali Pro features a high-quality, handcrafted, lightweight 22-inch aluminum frame that delivers a stiff, responsive ride. The 16-speed Microshift drivetrain, meanwhile, is equipped with integrated brake/shift levers, so you can both brake and shift without moving your hands from the handlebar. And thanks to the dual-pivot brake system, the bike stops on a dime should the terrain get rough. Other features include aluminum rims with stainless-steel spokes, 700c x 25 tires, an alloy crank, and a steel fork. The recommended height range of the Denali Pro is 5' 9" to 6' 1", and the standover height is 31.5 inches.
Amazon.com Bicycle Buying Guide Finding the Right Bike To really enjoy cycling, it's important to find a bicycle that works for you. Here are some things to keep in mind when you're in the market for a new bike:
The Right Ride In general, bikes are broken down into three major categories:
Road and Racing Bikes--As a general rule, road and racing are built for speed and longer distances on paved surfaces. Thinner tires, lightweight 29-inch (700c) wheels, and drop bars that allow for a more aerodynamic position are the norm. Most road bikes, regardless of price, offer many gears for tackling both hilly and flat terrain.
Mountain Bikes--With their larger tires, hill-friendly gearing, and upright position, mountain bikes are very popular for all types of riding, both on pavement and off. Mountain bikes that are designed specifically for rugged trail use typically feature a suspension fork. Some may have rear suspension, as well. A quick change of the tires on any mountain bike--even one that you use regularly on trails--adds to its versatility and makes it a worthy street machine.
Comfort/Cruiser Bikes--For tooling around on bike paths, light trails, or for cruising a quiet beach-side lane, comfort/cruiser bikes are the ticket. With a super-relaxed riding position, padded seats, and limited or no gearing, these bikes are made for enjoying the scenery and having fun with the family.
The Right Price A bike's price boils down to three essentials: frame materials, bike weight, and component quality and durability.
Entry-level--You'll find a wide range of comfort and cruiser bikes in this category, as well as some lower-end mountain bikes and road bikes. Most will have steel frames and components that are designed to last for several years with frequent use.
Mid-range--Bikes in this range may feature a lighter aluminum frame with mid-range components that keep performing after miles of use. If you're looking for a quality bike that is relatively lightweight and will stand up to abuse, this is the "sweet spot." Most serious commuter and touring bikes fall into this category, as do mid-range mountain bikes with a decent front suspension.
High-end--Racers and serious enthusiasts who expect lightweight, high-performance components will want to stick to this category. For road bikes, exotic frame materials (carbon fiber, titanium) and ultralightweight components can add thousands to the price tag. Mountain bikes in this class often feature advanced front and rear suspension technology, as well as components designed to handle lots of rugged trail action.
The Right Size Fit is crucial for comfort, control, and proper power and endurance on a bike. Here are some basic bike fit tips:
Stand-over Height--To find out if a bike's overall height fits your body, measure your inseam. Next, determine how much clearance you'll need between your crotch and the top tube of the bike. For a mountain bike, you'll want three to five inches of clearance. A road bike should offer between one and two inches of clearance, while a commuter bike should have two to four inches. Compare the stand-over height for a given bike to your measurements (inseam + clearance) to determine the right bike height.
Top Tube Length--You can measure your torso to get a good estimate of proper top tube length. First, make a fist and extend your arm. Measure from the center of your fist to the end of your collarbone (the part that intersects your shoulder). Next, measure your torso by placing a book against your crotch with the spine facing up. Measure from the spine to the bottom of your throat (the spot between your collarbones). Finally, add the two measurements (arm length + torso length), divide the number in half, and subtract six inches. This is your approximate top tube length. Compare this number to a bike's posted top tube length. You can allow for about two inches longer or shorter, as most bikes can be adjusted via stem length/height and saddle fore/aft position to make fine adjustments to the fit.
Bikes for Women--Proportionally, women tend to have a shorter torso and longer legs than men. Bike makers design women's bikes that offer a shorter top tube and many comfort/cruiser bikes built for women may also provide more stand-over clearance.
The Right Accessories When you make a bike purchase, don't forget these crucial add-ons:
Helmet (this is a must!)
Seat pack
Lock
Hydration pack, or water bottle and bottle cage
Spare tubes
Portable bike pump
Gloves
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